Those of us who have been longtime fans of
René Geoffroy’s champagnes still sometimes think of them in terms of the old nomenclature: Cuvée de Réserve, Sélectionnée and Prestige. Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy renamed the main cuvées of the estate in 2005, as he found the old names boring. “Names like Réserve and Prestige are so generic,” he says. “You find
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