
Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon,
chef de cave of
Louis Roederer, hosted an excellent tasting at the
Mondrian SoHo in New York City earlier this week, featuring a number of old vintages from the house’s private cellars. The tasting was designed to explore the role of terroir in Roederer’s champagnes, which is a subject that is certainly worthy of discussion (and that I’ve already written quite a bit about in
my profile of the house). As I was tasting through these wines, however, I felt that a more general theme was also apparent here: an unusual freshness of flavor even in the wines that were 20 or 30 years old.
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