• Bertrand Gautherot of Vouette & Sorbée, in his Aube vineyard of Vouette

    The Aube estate of Vouette & Sorbée is, at least temporarily, sans Vouette. These were the estate’s oldest vines, planted between 1962 and 1967, but after the 2014 harvest, Bertrand Gautherot decided to replant this half-hectare parcel.

    “It does seem kind of odd to pull up my oldest vines,” he admits, “especially in one of the original vineyards of my estate. It was planted with a very good massale selection of pinot noir from Volnay, too, because historically, my family always had closer relationships with Burgundy than with the Marne. The problem was that it was planted on [the rootstock] SO4, which was chosen more for production than for quality. Every year, the grapes wer
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