• I realize that describing a champagne as a “non-vintage from 2008” is something of an oxymoron. I also realize that many producers insist that they create consistent blends from year to year, and that, at least publicly, we ought to adhere to the party line and acknowledge this. But anyone who follows a particular producer’s non-vintage brut from one year to the next realizes that while a certain house style is always consistently expressed, the wines themselves can vary in cha
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