• Marie-Noëlle Ledru 1979 Champagne

    I visited Marie-Noëlle Ledru a couple of days after she had finished harvesting, and found her in relatively good spirits. It hasn't been easy for her lately—as of last year, she has lost two-thirds of her vineyard land due to family disputes, leaving her with a mere two hectares to work with. Sadly, she's likely to lose even more this year, further diminishing the quantity of wine that she will produce. All of this has led to rampant speculation in the region that she is retiring, an assertion that she flatly denies, for the moment.

    For consumers like us, it's a pity, even an injustice, that one of the finest grower-producers to be found anywhere in the Champagne region should be deprived of material to make her wine. The Ledru estate is the very definition of ar
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