• Tasting vins clairs with Philippe Aubry of Champagne L. Aubry Fils

    There are a number of growers today who are working with the “forgotten” varieties in Champagne: arbanne, petit meslier, pinot blanc and fromenteau (or pinot gris). The most renowned, though, continue to be the Aubry brothers, who have been making champagnes from these grapes since 1993.

    The Aubrys make three cuvées that involve these unusual varieties. The primary one is called Le Nombre d’Or, which is a blend of seven varieties—all four of these, plus chardonnay, pinot noir and meunier. They also make a blanc des blancs (employing the plural article) from arbanne, petit meslier, pinot blanc and chardonnay, bottled with a reduced level of pressure in a style called sablé. A rosé vers
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