• While tasting some dosage trials earlier this week with Raphäel Bérèche of Bérèche et Fils, I thought again about how misleading it is to think about dosage as simply an issue of numbers. It has become increasingly fashionable to talk about a champagne’s dosage in grams per liter as if this figure, in and of itself, actually meant something. But it doesn’t.

    Dosage exists to provide balance, not to make a wine sweeter or drier. On the face of it, these might sound like the same thing, but it’s actually important to differentiate between the two ideas. If the function of dosage were merely to alter the sweetness of the wine, then it could easily be adjusted to accomodate the
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