• As I was writing my tasting notes for Emmanuel Brochet’s newly-released non-vintage cuvées, I thought about something that he said while we were tasting these wines together last month. Brochet typically releases two versions of the same blend, one as a non-dosé and the other with just a touch of dosage, and while he personally prefers to drink the non-dosé, he thinks that the brut version is often more suitable for restaurant service.

    “In effect, the dosage is there to counter the acidity and the bitterness of the wine when it’s served too cold,” he says. “Most restaurants serve champagne at 6°C (43°F), and the acidity can be much more aggressive than when the wine is served properly, at 11 or 12 d
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