Last week a friend opened a late-night bottle of champagne for me, serving it blind. From its richly golden color it was clear that this was a wine with some age, and its honeyed, waxy aromas also suggested that it was at least a couple of decades old. I identified the vintage fairly readily (it was from 1982), and from the smoky flavors and broad, mouthfilling girth on the palate, I was convinced that the blend was dominated by pinot noir.
"Um, no," my friend said. "
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